SO NEAR YET SO FAR
The lonely and beautiful Harthope Valley narrowly separates the two highest summits in the Cheviot Hills as they stand on either side of its twinkling burn like giant sentrys. To the north stands the Cheviot, at 815 metres the highest point between the Pennines and the southern uplands of Scotland, whilst to the south Hedgehope Hill rises majestically to an impressive 714 metres. “So close yet so far” will be the cry as you start this walk with the toughest climb of the day, the Cheviot itself, for it will be just over 14 miles before you ultimately touch the trig point on Hedgehope Hill. In between you will have walked along broad ridges, crossed remote valleys and climbed the three highest hills in the Cheviot Hills.
The Cheviot from Hexpethgate
The Walk
1. Travelling south west from Wooler, the single track road which winds through the Harthope Valley brings you to your starting point, where the Hawsen and Harthope Burns meet. There is roadside parking (NT 954225). Your route continues along this road for 200 metres to where a signpost points the way to Scald Hill and the Cheviot. Follow the path as it climbs to the left of the New Burn and in time joins the ridge (NT 933221) leading to the top of Scald Hill. The path continues to follow the fence off Scald Hill across a boggy depression before climbing steeply over mixed ground to the eastern end of the summit plateau of the Cheviot. Across the stile and just under half a mile ahead, along a stone pathway, lies the elevated trig point perched high on a plinth. Two earlier trig points have disappeared deep into the peaty morass of the summit plateau.
2. Continue to follow the pathway and the fence across the plateau, passing on your left a small lough, and then Cairn Hill, the south western outhill of the Cheviot. The pile of boulders on Cairn Hill is known as Scotsman`s Cairn and is a perfect place to view the hills to the south. On reaching the main Pennine Way footpath (NT 896194), turn to your left across the stile, heading south westwards towards Score Head and then to the trig point on Kings Seat. Continue mainly downhill to the signpost at Hexpethgate (NT 871160), also known as the Border Gate and Cocklawgate. This is where Clennell Street, a medieval trade route used over the centuries by drovers, reivers and smugglers, crosses the border, and the Pennine Way, on its way from Alwinton in Coquet Dale to Cocklawfoot and the Bowmont Valley in Scotland.
3. You must now turn left and follow this ancient track as it descends gently towards the extensive plantations of Uswayford. After a short while (NT 875157) bid farewell to Clennell Street and take the signposted Salters Road. Descend through the forest on a very muddy path, crossing a forest track en route, until the remote valley of the Usway Burn is reached. You will be greeted by the impressive sight of the waterfall of Davidsons Linn (NT 884157), one of Northmberland`s very best. This is the perfect spot to catch your breath and to remember that near here in the distant past, long before the forest was planted, there was an illicit still for drying malted barley, known as `Rory`s Still`. Above the waterfall, cross the burn via the new wooden footbridge, and continue to follow the signposted Salters Road as it travels through the forest above the Clay Burn. Just before the track emerges out of the forest at the col between Bloodybush Edge and Lint Lands be sure to follow the muddy track, which climbs slightly to the left of the main forest track, which in turn bends away to the right, and not the forest track itself.
4. Once out of the forest (NT 904157) continue eastwards along the Salters Road towards the Upper Breamish Valley. There is not one obvious track through what can be very boggy ground, so choose the best possible line and then aim high towards the top of Nagshead Knowe, before descending to the ford of the Ainsey Burn and the bridge over the River Breamish. Now head south eastwards downstream for approximately 200 metres before taking the bridleway (NT 921162), which climbs to the left, towards, but not to, the summit of High Cantle. On reaching the ridge your route turns to the left to follow the fence, first to Shielcleugh Edge and then on to Coldlaw Cairn. Before doing this, a short diversion to your right will take you to the cairn on the 482 metre high top of High Cantle with excellent views down into the remote Upper Breamish Valley.
Windy Gyle from Score Head
5. As you now head forwards with the fence on your right you will continue over rough and, at times, wet ground at a height constantly in excess of 500 metres for over three and a half miles. This is wild country and on reaching the rocky Coldlaw Cairn (NT 914180) it is hard to imagine a more isolated spot in these most northerly of England`s array of hills. Below you, to the west, lies the infant River Breamish, whilst to the north rises the mighty Cheviot, climbed all those hours and long hard miles ago. To the north east lies the flat and uninteresting Comb Fell and beyond the shapely cone of Hedgehope Hill. Your route to these two hills continues to stay with the fence. The summit of Comb Fell and the subsequent gentle descent pass without note, except perhaps for the wet underfoot conditions and the continuing sense of absolute solitude, before the summit, and drier ground of Hedgehope Hill is reached (NT 943198). The views from this lovely top are excellent in all directions with the large bulk of the Cheviot dominating the north west and the North Sea clearly visible to the east. Take time out to enjoy this splendid spot before descending steeply north easterly along a single track path. When the gradient begins to level out head eastwards, across the moorland of Kelpie Strand, where odd waymarkers ease navigation, until the southern end of Long Crags is reached. Continue towards and around the impressive mass of Housey Crags before descending sharply to the wooden footbridge over the Harthope Burn and the end of a glorious day in the Cheviot Hills.
The Summit of Hedgehope Hill with The Cheviot behind
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Distance |
27.4 km. (17 miles ) |
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Total Ascent |
1240 metres |
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Grading |
Strenuous |
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Start & Key Grid References |
Harthope Valley (NT 954225 ), (NT 933221), (NT 896194), (NT 871160), (NT 875157), (NT 884157), (NT 904157), (921162), (NT 914180) & (NT 943198) |
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Time |
7 hours |
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Nearest Town |
Wooler |
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Terrain |
Mainly mixed fell, boggy in places, with steep ascents & descents & some stone paths |
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Maps |
OS Explorer (1:25000) OL16. Harveys Superwalker (1:40000) The Cheviot Hills |
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Accommodation |
Wooler Youth Hostel. Telephone 01668 281365. Small hotels & guest houses in Wooler & two caravan parks/camp sites |
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Public Transport |
None (except to Wooler ) |
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Tourist Information |
Rothbury National Park Centre. Telephone: 01669 620887 |
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NEXT WALK : HIGH ABOVE THE COQUET |
Devised, written & photographed: Geoff Holland 2005