THE THREEE VALLEYS OF CHEVIOT
The Cheviot Hills are England`s most northerly hills where big skies and distant horizons give a sense of splendid isolation. These are windswept hills where solitude is the norm. This is the land of the curlew whose crystal clear call echoes across empty landscapes. At the heart of these hills lies The Cheviot, at 815 metres the highest point north of Cross Fell. From this lofty hill rounded ridges roll away far and wide and green valleys stretch out quietly below. During this walk you will climb the Cheviot and the Schil, cross briefly into Scotland, walk along part of the Pennine Way and sample beneath your feet three of the Cheviots most beautiful valleys, the Harthope, the College and the Lambden. You will clear your lungs and sharpen your senses.
Mounthooly in the College Valley
The Walk
1. The Harthope Valley, 5 miles south-west of Wooler is the perfect place to start this walk. Park by the single track road, where the Hawsen and Harthope Burns meet (NT 954225). Whilst there is no access for cars beyond this point your route on foot follows this road for 200 metres to where a signpost points the way to the Cheviot and Scald Hill. A clear path climbs to the left of the New Burn to eventually join the ridge (NT 933221) across the top of Scald Hill. A small detour over the fence to the summit cairn will reveal views down to the remote farm of Goldscleugh in the Lambden Valley and beyond to the College Valley. These valleys will be visited later in the day. The path, boggy in places, continues to follow the fence off Scald Hill before climbing steeply to the summit plateau of the Cheviot. At this point, a stile lifts you across the fence, and drops you down on a convenient millstone slabbed pathway which leads easily across a sea of peat to the elevated trig point perched on a high plinth. This is the highest point of the day although not the one affording the best views.
2. Continue across the plateau following the pathway and the fence southwards, passing on your left Cairn Hill after half a mile, and then onwards to where the pathway joins (NT 896194) the main Pennine Way arriving from Score Head to the south-west. Cross the stile onto the duckboards, constructed in July and August 1989 to control erosion, and stride out north-westwards to Auchope Cairn (NT 891198). At 726 metres this point offers extensive views over the route to the Schil and down into the head of the College Valley. On a clear day this is one of the finest vantage points in the Cheviot Hills. You will now leave the summit plateau of the Cheviot, but this bulk of a hill will continue to dominate the rest of the walk. The descent from Auchope Cairn is an exciting one and it is difficult to resist the temptation to break into a run over the soft green turf. However, time should be taken to make a short detour from the fence to look down into the narrow ravine of the Hen Hole. With its sheer cliffs and sunlight starved depths it is uncharacteristic of the Cheviot Hills, a remnant of the Ice Age. Half way across the depression at the bottom of the descent, with excellent views down the College Valley, there is a small refuge hut which was built several years ago replacing the long standing railway wagon. Here is an ideal spot to raid the sandwich box.
Bizzle Crags on the north side of The Cheviot
3. Continue across the depression, with the fence on your left, and up to the rocky tor of the summit of the Schil (NT 869223), just 15 feet short of the magical 2000 feet. This hill was described by A.Wainwright as `alone amongst the Cheviot heights as having the appearance of a real mountain top `. The summit lies over the fence on the border with Scotland and there is an opportunity for those so inclined to scramble amongst the rocks. A mile long descent over fairly easy ground leads to a depression where the ever faithful border fence becomes a wall. When the signpost (NT 863233) is reached, it is time to part company with the Pennine Way as it heads into Scotland towards Black Hag and beyond. You now turn eastwards, signposted Mounthooly, descending along an indistinct path, guided by intermittent marker posts, towards the College Valley. Bear right when this path joins the wider bridleway and follow the track down through the field behind the buildings of Mounthooly to where it joins the valley track (NT 881223). Head past the plantation on your right. Just south of the plantation, at the deer gate, turn left to the College Burn and after crossing it climb steeply uphill, on a rough track, with the forest immediately to your left. Where the forest ends (NT 884223) turn left and head north-eastwards across the grassy hillside keeping close to the forest, again on your left. You are now on the lower northern slopes of the Cheviot, with West Hill above you. You are heading towards the remote farm of Dunsdale and the Lambden Valley.
4. Dunsdale (NT 899231) is reached after a mile of easy walking and here it is worth pausing, just beyond the farm buildings, to admire Bizzle Crags to your right. This interesting cleft in the north face of the Cheviot, with its exposed mass of granite, has witnessed over the years several winter climbing fatalities. Continue eastwards along the tarmac track and soak up the peacefulness of the remote Lambden Valley. Just before (NT 912233) Goldscleugh is reached leave the tarmac road and follow the sign marked the Harthope Valley across the field and behind the farm. Then cross the Lambden Burn and continue eastwards, climbing gradually across the lower slopes of Preston Hill through a small plantation and onto an old forest track (NT 925233). You have now reached the head of the valley and within a quarter of a mile you leave the track climbing to your left up through the heather on an obvious green path to the col between Broadhope Hill and Scald Hill.
5. Cross the fence (NT 934229) and turn left following it northwards and then eastwards when it turns just below the summit of Broadhope Hill. A short diversion over the fence and past the boundary stone will take you to the top and at 517 metres another worthy trophy. Continue steeply downhill until a track from the now ruined farm of Broadstruther comes in from the north-west. At this point (NT 944233), turn right and enjoy the easy downhill walk above the lovely Hawsen Burn back to the Harthope Valley.
Refuge Hut and Auchope Cairn
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Distance |
23.3 km. (14.5 miles) |
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Total Ascent |
1060 metres |
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Grading |
Strenuous |
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Start & Key Grid References |
Harthope Valley (NT 954225), (NT 933221), (NT 896194), (NT 891198), (NT 869223), (NT 863233), (NT 881223), (T 884223), (NT 899231), (NT 912233), (NT 925233), (NT 934229) & (NT 944233) |
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Time |
7 hours |
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Nearest Town |
Wooler |
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Terrain |
Mainly mixed fell, boggy in places, with steep ascents & descents, some stone paths & duckboards & a short stretch of tarmac |
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Maps |
OS Explorer (1:25000) OL 16. Harveys Superwalker (1:40000) The Cheviot Hills |
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Accommodation |
Wooler Youth Hostel. Telephone 01668281365. Small hotels & guest houses in Wooler & two caravan parks/camp sites |
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Public Transport |
None (except to Wooler) |
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Tourist Information |
Rothbury National Park Centre. Telephone: 01669 620887 |
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NEXT WALK : HIGH HILLS ROLLERCOASTER |
Devised, written & photographed: Geoff Holland 2005